It's a snowy and windy day in February 2006, and I grip the door of Olive + Gourmando in Old Montreal swinging it open, mindful not to let the cold air or blowing snow inside.
The stone building sits on the corner of St-Paul and St-Pierre, lower case letters o+g hint towards what would soon become one of my most treasured food spots. It’s a very cold day and my teenage ego has me in Converse, an idiotic choice made to rebel against the chunky winter boots my parents originally insisted on.
They’re always right I think to myself annoyed as I stomp the snow out of my shoes in Olive's entry way, my best friend following in my wake.
The smell of fresh pastries and bread wafts through the air and we order a hot chocolate and climb into a seat by the window. Snow is falling faster than we thought possible and gathers in the corners of the window frame while we chat about how cool we are to be sitting in Old Montreal— far from the suburbs we grew up in.
We’re talking about travelling abroad, living in Europe and writing books. It’s a foreign concept to us at the time, and one that would manifest many years later.
Cut to present day—Summer 2023 in Montreal—arguably one of the most serendipitous times and places to be. I’m meeting the owner and operator of Olive and Gourmando Dyan Solomon to talk about her and her business partner Eric Girard's journey building not only Olive but also Foxy and Un Poi Di Pu.
Making my way to its’ familiar storefront my phone buzzes from Dyan:
“I’m standing up, eating in the kitchen, text me when you get here!”
I smile, about to reply I’m already here. But a familiar feeling sets in of myself needing to do the same not a few hours earlier in between work calls. I take a beat and type back.
“I’ll be there in a couple minutes!” I exit Olive and take a walk around the block to afford us both some time.
When I get back Dyan greets me with a smile as bright as the orange of her awesome trousers. “Do you want a cookie?!” She points towards an amazing looking double chocolate delight, one I've come to know far too well.
“Don’t tempt me with a good time, Dyan!” I laugh and we sit and chat.
I compliment the brightness of her trousers, she compliments my Fleetwood Mac t-shirt. I could hang out with Dyan all day if not for the amazing stories she has about the food industry and her love for sharing it with those who walk through the door. I’m itching to ask her about the Cuban sandwich that’s satiated my tastebuds for years— a food item I have always insisted on in times where I’ve lived far away and craved the taste of home.
I gush over how Olive + Gourmando has been a comfort to me as an awkward teenager desperate to escape the narrow minded suburbs. I elaborate about how this place has been an oasis in my early adulthood as a production assistant in need of sustenance to keep me going during 16hr shifts.
Dyan listens with kindness and generosity, she’s creative and funny and holds a wisdom of the food industry specific to Montreal with the perspective of someone who has been on a global stage. She’s the kind of person I instantly feel connected to because of how much I’ve indulged in her food and the setting she’s created for her patrons.
We make our way through the kitchen towards her office as the smell of fresh bread intoxicates me into near delusion. I drop my bag, give a scratch on the head to the office dog and turn on my podcast mic. The stories Dyan shares are magical and I’m nearly brought to tears when we discuss how Olive + Gourmando kept itself afloat during the tougher years of the Covid pandemic. Then, I’m brought to wonder when she explores the origins of some of my favourite menu items.
This episode is similar in flavour to the way you feel when you walk into O+G—heartwarming, cozy, surprising and oddly familiar.
We navigate the ups and downs and intricacies of building a career in the restaurant industry, and how that’s evolved over time. We talk about her influences, and inspirations. My eyes widen at the trajectory it’s taken. Discovering the ways in which Dyan and her business partner Eric’s imagination and planning led them to open not one but two more restaurants, is enchanting. There’s professional inspiration that’s for sure, but the recipe also calls for a dash of personal realizations brought to light through the triumphs they've celebrated and tribulations they've overcome. There’s an awareness that your gut instinct plays a huge part in this game too, and how following that will always steer you in the right direction.
As a consumer, all I can think about is where on Earth did a recipe for this Cuban sandwich come from?! Hint: check out O+G’s cookbook here! I'm also wondering how their bread manages to taste this good and be this fluffy. It tastes like the feeling of hugging your favourite family member every time you take a bite.
Wrapping up I ask Dyan if she has a question for my next guest without sharing who they are. Without hesitation there’s questioning about the current hospitality staffing crisis—one that I too am curious about. Let’s see who gets to answer this one!
Until then, you’ll find me eating more than I probably should at O+G a place after my own heart and one that I'll always have a soft spot for. As the mic turns off and it’s time to go home, Dyan reaches into a box in her office, pulls out a copy of the Olive + Gourmando cookbook, and hands it to me. It's stunning, my heart grows three sizes leafing through the beautiful pictures and delicious recipes. I'm so appreciative of this place that's become more than just a restaurant for me personally. It's where I've shared memories and affirmed future plans–or maybe that's just the cookie talking!
What a joy it was to speak with you Dyan—thank you for sharing your recipes, coffee, and time with me. I so appreciate what you’ve built and am thrilled to share it with the world.
Check out this week’s episode of Daughter of a Restaurateur featuring Dyan Solomon owner and operator of Olive + Gourmando, Foxy, and Un Poi Di Pu in Montreal.
Bon Appetit!
xx
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